Şanlıurfa
Thread your way through the vaulted corridors of the bedesten to reach this restored han (caravanserai) crowded with locals enjoying a cold drink, çay or…
Must-see nightlife in Southeastern Anatolia
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Mardin
If the eclectic interior of bric-a-brac, chirping canaries, antiques and a random fish tank doesn't charm you, the view of the Mesopotamian plains…
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Gaziantep
Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) so thick you could stand a spoon in it. Coffee has been served here since 1635. Today Tahmis Kahvesi occupies both the…
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Mardin
One of our favourite joints in Mardin. This modern cafe, with a stone-and-wood interior offset by art prints and bookcases, is a relaxing place to while…
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Southeastern Anatolia
A restored 19th-century mansion with an airy, garden-like courtyard and wooden upper gallery, Hanzade is a fine, relaxed spot to pass an hour or two with…
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Şanlıurfa
The southern side of Gölbaşı, surrounding the Ayn-i Zeliha lake, is crammed with shady tea gardens where families and groups of friends linger on the…
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Mardin
Join the moustachioed throngs in Mardin's most authentic tea and coffee house. In between blokey rounds of backgammon, cards and okey, the faded amber…
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Adana Şalgamacısı – Gürbüz Usta
Gaziantep
Get your vitamin C fix here. The menu offers plenty of freshly squeezed juices and the 'atom' (combining milk, honey, banana, hazelnuts and pistachios)…
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Gaziantep
This restored han (caravanserai), just steps from the castle, has been turned into one of Gaziantep's swankiest bar-restaurants. After a long hot…
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Gaziantep
A student crowd gathers in this historic Armenian mansion, with a leafy courtyard, in an alleyway off Atatürk Bulvarı that holds plenty of other cafes…
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Mardin
Part cafe, part bookshop and part performance space with occasional live Kurdish music. Also beer, wine and a balcony looking out over Mardin's bustling…
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Mardin
This simple tea garden has phenomenal views over Old Mardin and the Plains of Mesopotamia.
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Gaziantep
Lounge back on the cushions, sip çay and relax with a nargile (water pipe; ₺30) after exploring the bazaar alleys in this restored han (caravanserai). On…
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Southeastern Anatolia
This squeaky-boarded, 19th-century Malatya mansion is packed with memorabilia. Soak up the ambience in either of two spacious, airy main rooms (note that…
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Mardin
Either retire to the expansive terrace for views, or grab an indoor table and a cold beer and wait for the live music to kick off – from Wednesday to…
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Şanlıurfa
Recharge at this juice bar on the edge of the bazaar. We find the zingy greyfurt suyu (grapefruit juice) especially refreshing.
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Şanlıurfa
This pub and beer garden is a haven from the Anatolian heat. It's too blokey for single female travellers, but we've seen local couples together here.
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Southeastern Anatolia
This nargile (water pipe) cafe is a popular spot with Malatya's under-30 set after dark.
