This charming homestay is tucked down a leafy lane behind the bazaar. With a kitchen, dining room, billiard room and sitting area shared by three pleasant, simple rooms above the central iris garden, it feels like home. From the bazaar, walk down the steps beside Bashani Hamam (201 Rudaki), then right for 50m along a small footpath that crosses a stream.
The owner speaks German and English and can organise treks and transport (eg US$70 to Khojand).