Surrounded by fields overlooked by two large daybeds, this friendly homestay is a relaxed place to break the journey for lunch (30TJS) or overnight, and it's become one of the key meeting places for travellers in the Wakhan. Rooms are a bit sparse but there are Western-style loos and hot showers in compensation – and travellers' tales about crossing into Afghanistan.
Travellers can pitch a tent in the grounds and use the shower and bathroom facilities (30TJS). The helpful owners (Vali speaks good English) are able to organise a concert of traditional music if there are more than 15 people (200TJS per person). The homestay is well marked just west of central Ishkashim.