A first-time guide to Romania

Ancient forests and long-enduring traditions that have produced a storybook’s worth of legends: yes, Romania is as alluring as you’ve heard.

Here, you’ll find magnificent castles and medieval fortresses, with diverse landscapes that range from riveting mountaintops, thermal waters and lush meadows to wide beaches and an extraordinary delta by the Black Sea.

In the last decade, the country has changed exponentially. While Romania remains one of the last European countries where you can find wild living and country life seemingly untouched by modernity (you really will see horse-drawn buggies in small villages), its cities feel utterly contemporary, with wi-fi available at most cafes, a thriving tech scene, specialty coffee and world-class festivals. (EDM fans should immediately add Untold to their calendars.) 

Bucharest is the economic epicenter and largest city, where rich cultural scene sets it apart in the country. It is here, as well as in sought-after Cluj-Napoca, Transylvania’s unofficial capital, that the cost of living reaches levels similar to Western Europe. Yet as soon as you travel into the countryside, you’ll find bargains galore.

Before you set out, keep in mind that Romania is bigger than you think, and ease of getting around can vary according to where you are in the country. We recommend picking one or two regions and really getting to know them.

If you’re thinking of heading to Romania for the first time, here’s more of what you need to know. 

When should I go to Romania?

With a temperate continental climate, Romania’s weather ranges from frigid to sizzling. Winters are colder in the mountains, with temperatures well below freezing from December to mid-March (though the past few years have been milder, with less snow). Recent summers have been plagued by heatwaves and droughts, with scorching, 38°+C (100°+F) highs in the southern flat areas not uncommon.

Which is why late spring and early autumn might be the best times to visit Romania. April and May bring a slew of festivals and the scent of lilacs and linden blossoms. Late September and October usher in exciting events; the pleasant temperatures and autumn foliage make this the perfect season for leisurely road trips and hiking the golden-hued Carpathian Mountains.

How much time should I spend in Romania?

Several cities in Romania – such as Bucharest and the popular Transylvanian towns of Brașov, Cluj-Napoca or Sibiu – are suitable for long-weekend city breaks. All are connected to airports (Bucharest’s Henri Coandă International Airport is by far the busiest), with Brașov’s Ghimbav the first new airport to be unveiled in Romania in 50 years. If you’re driving into Banat from Hungary, stops in Timișoara and Oradea will delight history and architecture lovers.

A week would be most ideal for exploring the fabled region of Transylvania: this much time would allow for agrotourism stays in Saxon villages. For a better idea of Romania’s diversity of heritage sites and natural beauty, 10 days to two weeks would be optimal. Touring the UNESCO-listed painted monasteries in Bucovina is a must, and pairs well with a visit to elegant Iași, Moldavia’s biggest city. For a unique biodiversity experience, retreat to the Danube Delta in multi-ethnic Dobrogea, a tranquil haven for bird-watching.

Is it easy to get in and around in Romania? 

In town, you can expect to explore on foot. Transylvanian towns are compact, with lively squares and pedestrian areas. Bucharest is more spread out, densely populated and rather chaotic – but you can access its varied dining and cultural scene via its metro network and affordable rideshare apps including Bolt and Uber.

Be aware traffic jams are common – in both cities and on popular tourist routes such as the Prahova Valley – due to many construction sites and infrastructure works. While broadly available, train service is slow, with aging tracks and stock on state-run CFR services. New trains are gradually being introduced, with private operators gradually improving things.

Renting a car is essential for remote areas not connected to public transport; Romania reveals its contrasts and feisty driving habits as you hop between busy cities and rustic villages. For bigger distances connecting cities spanning the country, consider domestic flights to avoid endless train rides or roadblocks.

Top things to do in Romania

From untamed wilderness to centuries-old monasteries and fortified churches, here are a few highlights among Romania’s many natural, cultural and historic sights.

Tour Dracula’s Castle by night

The number-one attraction first-time visitors are keen to visit no matter what, Bran Castle – known as Dracula’s Castle – was made famous by Bram Stoker’s 1897 fantasy novel. Despite the touristy atmosphere, the cliff-top fortress attracts close to a million visitors per year, who learn about the real-time daunting figure of Vlad Ţepeş, the 15th-century Wallachian prince referred to as Vlad the Impaler, who inspired Stoker.

While a day tour comes with sweeping mountain views, a private after-hours visit by night is a far eerier experience. With few crowds, a humorous guide provides insight into the spooky legend versus real facts. High-end boutique hotel MATCA Transylvanian Sanctuary, nestled on top of a spectacular hilltop in Bran, offers guests bespoke tours of the castle, some 8km (5 miles) away.  

Join an immersive journey into the wild on Via Transilvanica 

Road trips such as the famed TransFăgărășan or TransAlpina are very much worthwhile and high on many visitors’ lists – but the new long-distance Via Transilvanica, which crosses seven historical regions of Romania, will have you in awe. Expect to encounter UNESCO World Heritage sites, impressive citadels and picturesque villages in the Carpathians where life continues as it has for centuries. Indeed, the 1400km (870-mile) hiking, cycling and horseback-riding trail reveals the essence of Romania, while nurturing sustainable community development, agrotourism and a farm-to-table way of life.

Go bird-watching on a boat in the Danube Delta 

Few experiences are more serene than cruising the marshes of the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve, home to over 300 species of birds and the biggest number of white and Dalmatian pelicans in Europe. Among thousands of lush canals, lakes and reed islands, the spectacle of birds flying into the sunrise is a sight to behold. Formed by three estuary channels, this is the best-preserved delta and largest river wetland in all of Europe. With 45 freshwater fish species to harvest here, you can count on a feast, too. Storceag – borsch-like soup made of catfish and sturgeon – and grilled fish drenched in mujdei (a pungent garlic sauce) are both culinary musts.

Explore Romania’s vineyards and indigenous grape varieties

Romania is Europe’s sixth largest wine producer, thanks to auspicious conditions and terroir for grape growing. Famous local grapes include fetească neagră and negru de drăgășani for reds, and fetească regală, tămȃioasă romȃnească and crâmpoșie for whites. With an abundance of wine bars across the country and wineries offering tastings (some including accommodations), you’ll have plenty of opportunities to taste these probably unfamiliar varietals. What’s more, many craft producers are shaking things up, harvesting grape varieties only found in Romania. A 1½-hour drive from Bucharest, Dealu Mare is perhaps the country’s most popular winemaking region. 

My favorite thing to do in Romania 

Whenever this city girl craves a break from the capital, I head over to the royal mountain resort of Sinaia in Prahova County, or to Brașov, a beloved fortified town at the foot of Mt Tâmpa known for its Gothic spires and orange-hued roofs. (At the chic Radisson Blu Aurum Hotel in Brașov’s center, remnants of the bastion walls are brilliantly on display.) I also love atmospheric Sighișoara, where my mother grew up, and whose rainbow-colored Old Town and still-inhabited medieval fortress (the last such one in Europe) have earned it a UNESCO designation. For a taste of rural life, a slow-travel experience in a Saxon village such as Biertan is my ideal follow-up. As an architecture lover, I love the art-nouveau wonderland of Oradea, which is filled with vibrant Secessionist heritage buildings.

How much money do I need for Romania? 

Romania is in the EU but not the eurozone, and its currency is the leu (plural lei). You can pay by card at most businesses in cities, except in smaller farmers markets, flower shops and the like (laws have been introduced to facilitate card payments everywhere); Apple Pay is popular in urban areas.

Thanks to recent economic growth, Romania is no longer as inexpensive as people might think. Tipping is encouraged, generally 10% of the bill.

Make sure to carry cash in rural areas. Many basic expenses – think street food such as mici (skinless grilled sausages), savory pastries like covrigi or merdenele, public transport, and local fruits and vegetables – will be budget-friendly. Yet mid-range and upscale hotels, fine dining, specialty coffee and wine are closer to Western European standards. Some supermarket cheeses and meats can even be pricier.  

• Hostel room: 70–150 lei (US$15–30) 

• Basic room for two: 150–300 lei (US$30–60)

• Room for two in an upscale hotel: 1000–2500 lei (US$200–530)

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): 200-550 lei (US$40–120)

• Public transport ticket 1.50–3 lei (US$0.30–0.60)

• Coffee: 5–20 lei (US$1-4)

• A plate of one to three mici: 5–15 lei (US$1–3)

• Dinner for two: 150–475 lei (US$30–100)

• Beer/pint at the bar: 10–25 lei (US$2–5)

Is Romania safe for travelers?

Banish those stereotypes from the post-communist free-for-all of the 1990s: Romania is significantly safer than many countries to its west. Crime is generally low, with gun violence almost nonexistent, and walking alone at night as a woman in cities is not a problem. Pay attention to the occasional petty theft or being overcharged in some farmers markets; it doesn’t hurt to verify prices with a local shopper.  

More of an issue are drivers who disregard speed laws or drink and drive, and the smoking culture, which although significantly amended since its pre-EU days remains a nuisance. Romania is in both the EU and NATO, and despite sharing a border with Ukraine, day-to-day life is largely unaffected by the hostilities there. You will likely encounter many Ukrainians settled and now working in Romania.

Is English widely spoken in Romania?

Most urban Romanians speak English, especially the younger generations – and likely two or three other languages as well. In rural areas, however, don’t count on widespread English thanks to an aging, inward-looking population. Religion remains a big focus in villages, so don’t be surprised when locals make the sign of the cross when passing by Orthodox churches, which are as frequent as pharmacies.