A guide to Phoenix, Arizona

Phoenix is the heart of Arizona's Valley of the Sun. It has one of the largest metro areas in the USA, but this city does not enthusiastically embrace the hustle and bustle of its counterparts. Instead, sunshine and saguaro cacti rule supreme, setting a scene for hikers, bikers, golfers, kayakers and outdoor enthusiasts of all stripes to find adventure anywhere in the valley, from the White Tank Mountains to the west to the Salt River to the east.

Poolside is also rarely a bad place to be in Phoenix. (Take a sip of your margarita every time a Phoenix local says, “At least it’s a dry heat!”) The pink-streaked sunsets will stop you in your tracks, so take the time to savor them before diving into the buzzing nightlife.

This guide to Phoenix wraps up everything you need to know about the best time to visit, getting around, the major attractions and daily costs. And please: don’t forget to hydrate.

A green golf course in the foreground leads to a two-peaked rock formation in the background at sunset. — Camelback Mountain. Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

When should I go to Phoenix?

Let’s get the obvious part out of the way: summers are hot in Phoenix, as in 110°F (43°C) – or worse – on a normal summer day. Yes, the air-conditioning will be on full blast indoors, but it is dangerously warm for those hoping to enjoy the stunning outdoors. Avoid the worst of the heat by visiting from late October to early May, and be sure to pack layers. Even the winter afternoons will have you ditching your jacket.

Luxury seekers, on the other hand, have a strong case for a summer visit to the valley. Most resorts and spas offer hefty discounts to soften the blow of their slow season, so you can stay at award-winning properties for 20–40% off standard rates, plus other perks. The same goes for golf fanatics: You can score majorly discounted tee times at some of the best, most beautiful courses on the West Coast, but aim for the earliest available slot so you aren’t playing during peak heat.

Unlike most of the US, Phoenix is at its best in the winter. Mornings and nights are chilly, but most days you’re met with sunshine, bright blue skies and 60–70°F (15–21°C) temperatures. In February, the WM Phoenix Open, Scottsdale’s signature PGA Tour event, attracts golf fans and partiers alike from across the country. That rolls right into Major League Baseball’s Cactus League spring training, which runs from mid-February through the end of March. If you want to be in the middle of the action, that’s the perfect time to visit the valley. If you’re a budget-minded traveler, pounce on flights and hotels as early as possible, or consider bumping your trip to January or April.

How much time should I spend in Phoenix?

For your first trip, you can cover a lot of ground in 3 days. Add a fourth – or even a fifth – for a road trip to the hiking trails in Sedona, the ponderosa pines in Flagstaff or the criminally underrated food scene in Tucson.

Is it easy to get in and around Phoenix?

Phoenix is one spectacular suburban sprawl, so be sure to budget for a rental car to get around easily. Grab yours upon touching down at Sky Harbor International, the area's major airport. There’s also the much smaller Mesa Gateway Airport on the easternmost edge of the valley, but it only serves Allegiant and Sun Country Airlines.

Unless you’re heading to Old Town Scottsdale or the heart of downtown Phoenix, you will not find many walkable areas in greater Phoenix. If you decide against a rental car and plan to hang around one general part of town, rideshares like Uber and Lyft will be sufficient for your stay.

Top things to do in Phoenix

The pink light of sunrise hits the peaks of a mountain while the houses in a valley are still in shade. — Sunrise view from Camelback Mountain. Cadeventures/Shutterstock

Hike the most popular trail in Phoenix

Time outdoors is a must (unless, as we established, it’s surface-of-the-sun hot). Camelback Mountain has the busiest hiking trails in the valley and for good reason: the panoramic views at the top will leave you in awe, and the location is convenient to resorts in Scottsdale, Arcadia and Paradise Valley.

There are just two trails on this mountain, however, and neither is friendly to beginners. You’ll find a much wider range of options – with just as gorgeous views – at Dreamy Draw Recreation Area in uptown Phoenix and South Mountain Park and Preserve south of downtown Phoenix.

Then feast afterward

If you go for a Dreamy Draw trek, reward yourself afterward with the burrata tomata pizza at nearby Base Pizzeria. Fresh burrata, cherry tomatoes, basil, roasted garlic and olive oil – it’s absolute heaven for your taste buds.

If you opted for a South Mountain trail, reapply your sunscreen and head to The Farm at South Mountain for a memorable farm-to-table food experience. In addition to its scrumptious breakfast spot, Morning Glory Café, the Farm Kitchen prepares picnic basket lunches that you can enjoy in the pecan grove or on the grass with lawn games. Either way, it's BYOB – bring your own blanket. For a romantic evening instead, make a coveted reservation for dinner under the stars at Quiessence.

Recharge in a desert garden

Perhaps you’d rather enjoy the beauty of the Sonoran Desert without breaking a sweat at the Desert Botanical Garden, right down the street from the Phoenix Zoo. The garden has more than 50,000 plants, including nearly 550 rare and endangered species. First stop by the cafe for snacks, drinks or ice cream to accompany you on the 2 miles of flat trails.

Sample a signature cocktail

Downtown Phoenix has a fun, casual vibe, but if cocktail bars are more your speed, catch the Valley Metro light rail to three of the coolest spots in Phoenix: Little Rituals (sparkly), Bitter & Twisted (dark and moody) and Valley Bar (gritty and sometimes a little sweaty). Aesthetics are merely a bonus here; the drinks speak for themselves.

The Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. Caitlin O'Hara for Lonely Planet

My favorite thing to do in Phoenix

On the first Friday of every month, the monthly art walk on Roosevelt Row fills several blocks with art displays, live music, food trucks and vendors. When you’re ready to give your feet a rest, pop into one of the many bars and restaurants lining the street. Arizona Wilderness and Greenwood Brewing are two of my favorites for their tasty local beer and welcoming patios.

On the same block, The Churchill is not to be missed; its shaded courtyard houses multiple bars, food stands and locally owned shops. Settle in with a pint and play a round of corn hole while you wait for your food, or head to the balcony for city views. The cherry on top: it’s dog-friendly!