Abu Dhabi in five days: mosques, museums, races and more

I wanted to sleep on the 12-hour flight home from Abu Dhabi last month, but my mind was too busy flipping through all the sights and sounds and tastes that populated my brief sojourn there.

I had spent five days exploring this emerging metropolis, zigzagging from one site to the next. I was always doing something: eating, walking, spectating, kayaking, swimming, shopping, sightseeing...I visited as part of an organized trip introducing a handful of international journalists to the multiple and varied allurements of the capital of the United Arab Emirates. The pinnacle of the trip? The final race of the season, the Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, which takes place each December at the Yas Island Marina Circuit.

Abu Dhabi is not new – yet it isn’t old, either. There is a sense of beginning here, with the most awe-inspiring institutions and cultural hubs all dating from this century. There is but one structural vestige of its past as a pearl-diving and fishing settlement (and it’s a must-visit).

Today, Abu Dhabi is a vibrant 21st-century hub, a cultural crossroads, a visual masterpiece, a bastion of play and delight – and I barely scratched the surface. If you find yourself there, be sure to take advantage of as many of its offerings as possible. For Abu Dhabi is active and alive.

And it’s just getting started.

• When to arrive: Direct flights into Zayed International Airport from the USA arrive throughout the day. I advise arriving later in the day, so you can check into your hotel soon after you touch down. 

• How to get from the airport: Take a taxi or an Uber; if you’re looking to save money, there is also a bus. The same options apply for getting around town. You can also rent a car and drive yourself.

• Where to stay: I stayed at the stunning Erth Hotel, housed in the former Armed Forces Officers Club. I loved the beautiful beach and pool area, and the delicious dining options – including Al Rimal’s divine and never-ending breakfast buffet (two words: donut wall). Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental is an iconic property with a legendary spa and one-Michelin-starred Hakkasan. And the W Abu Dhabi Yas Island is the world’s only hotel located on an F1 racetrack.  

• What to pack: Conservative clothing for mosque visits, activewear for parks and activities, comfortable shoes and swimwear for the beach. Don’t forget a dressier outfit for dining out.

Day 1: Touching down and settling in

Afternoon: This is an acclimation day, so after you settle in, go for a swim. It’s the absolute best way to stave off jet lag and feel like you’ve arrived. 

Evening: I had dinner at one of the hotel’s casual dining spots, Ergon, which serves Greek and other Mediterranean cuisine. I sat outside next to the water, ordered some meze and just settled into the scene. 

Day 2: Off to the track

Morning: I woke up and went straight to another hotel restaurant, Al Rimal, to indulge in their superb breakfast buffet – a smorgasbord that alone is worth the 12-hour flight. Think Benedicts, fruit, yogurt, cereal bar, fresh eggs and omelets, a selection of breads (including chabab, an Emirati pancake) and dreamy little jars of creamy, sweetened iced coffee.

How to spend the day: Since we were there for the Formula 1 finale race, our first day was a day at Yas Island Circuit. Because we were guests, we were given gratis Paddock Club pre-race access to the track and pit lane – which included stepping foot on the tarmac to board a flatbed truck and take a lap around the track. Afterward, we got the chance to see the cars and crews up close, as they calibrated each vehicle and practiced tire-changes. (Tickets for this experience are available, and can run close to US$1000).

We enjoyed a hosted lunch at CÉ LA Vie, a pop-up (the original restaurant is in Dubai) at Yas Marina Circuit. With a bird’s-eye view of the track, we could hear the blaring sound of the race cars whizzing by while sipping on ice-cold wine. I stood up frequently to watch the drivers take their practice runs.

Evening: One of the showstopping elements of attending the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix weekend is the Yasalam After-Race concert series: four nights of shows with some pretty major artists. To get access, fans reported to the Yas Island Marina Circuit early, where staff handed out a limited number of bracelets providing access to the shows (even weekend ticket holders must queue). This year’s shows featured Maroon 5, Eminem and Muse. The events are jammed and jamming, and while beer prices are through the roof, if you’re a fan of big-ticket live music, you can’t do much better.

Day 3: Kayaking, lunching and a dose of history

How to spend the day: After another delicious breakfast at Al Rimal (you’ll notice a trend), we drove to Jubail Mangrove Park for a kayak tour. Our leader, Fai, explained the importance of these mangrove forests to the regional ecosystem, as they protect against tidal surges and provide habitats for the bird species and marine life that populate the park.

Quick tip: You can and should pack activewear. The “lightest” clothes I brought were floor-length dresses and white jeans. Word to the wise: don’t wear jeans while kayaking. That’s a wetness I can’t recommend. 

Lunch: One of two Michelin-starred dining establishments in Abu Dhabi, Erth Restaurant (affiliated with our hotel) serves modern Emirati cuisine, folding in other Middle Eastern influences like hummus. Every single thing we ordered was delicious, with ingredients sourced from local purveyors. Standouts included the Pistachio Rahash, a beverage of camel milk, pistachio and vanilla that’s sweetened with rahash; the braised lamb; the Emirati shrimp taquitos; and luqaimat stuffed with dates for dessert. 

Afternoon: Touring Qasr Al Hosn, the oldest structure in Abu Dhabi. A former watchtower with a stunning courtyard and tower, the fort dates from the mid-18th century and, until 1966, served as the royal residence of the ruling Al Nahyan family. A visit to all the rooms on the upper level overlooking the courtyard gets you a crash course in local history and customs. Of particular interest is a vintage blown-up, black-and-white photo of the building – with nothing but sand surrounding it.

We decamped from one qasr to another: Qasr Al Watan, the presidential palace that opened in 2015. Although it’s only a decade old, the complex has a sense of ornate timelessness. Exploring this massive architectural landmark is overwhelming – in the best way – and the artistry on display and the sheer volume of relics and adornments around every corner beggar belief. This is an excellent experience during which to educate yourself about Emirati governance, customs and history. Do not miss the glorious library, with its shelves that seem to almost reach the sky. 

Day 4: An extraordinary museum – and the main event

Morning: After breakfast we drove to the Louvre Abu Dhabi, one of the most breathtakingly beautiful museums I’ve ever seen. Designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Jean Nouvel, the building itself is a masterpiece, with elements of light and water that make you feel like you’re in heaven while on on earth. 

The museum is intimate and relatively small, despite its phantasmagoria of contents. The highlight was the Post-Impressionism: Beyond Appearances exhibition, developed with the Musée d’Orsay and France Muséums, and which included works from artists including Vincent van Gogh, Paul Cézanne, Georges Seurat and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

We had lunch at the museum, outside on the terrace of French restaurant, Foquet’s. It seems like all of Abu Dhabi is under construction, and not far away we could here the dulcet sounds of jackhammering. Thankfully, just as we settled into our seats, the construction crew took their lunch break, too. We ordered typical French specialties, all perfectly executed, including a table-side steak tartare, escargots and a decadent chocolate soufflé for dessert. C’est magnifique!

Evening: The Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix kicked off at Yas Island Marina Circuit at 6pm sharp. The sound of the race cars was so intense and explosive that I regretted not bringing my earplugs. The speed at which they drive is impossible to take in – though you can feel it, and it's terrifying.

I finally understood the hype. This sport is pure adrenaline. 

I watched the sun set over one shoulder while sparks literally flew as cars whizzed past. Both sights gave a new meaning to “incandescent.” In the end, British driver Lando Norris came out on top, though wunderkind Max Verstappen had already won the season. Just as the race ended, the audience was asked to stick around, as Brad Pitt was filming the final sequence for his forthcoming F1 film. That was kind of hilarious.

Not so funny? The absolute mess that was transportation to and from the venue on race day. Our driver couldn’t find us, and we couldn't find him. We kept dropping pins and walking across uneven terrain on very tired feet. Taxis and Ubers were unavailable; buses were crammed. I don’t think there's any useful insight I can offer here, no tricks or tips. Just try to be patient (unlike me), and expect and accept the chaos. 

Day 5: Amusements galore, and an evening mosque visit

How to spend the day: Abu Dhabi is a playground for amusements. Case in point: the Kartzone at Yas Marina Circuit. After a brief introduction and safety briefing, wannabe F1 drivers get to prove their mettle on a mini track near the main one. We got decked out in our jumpsuits, gloves, helmets and goggles, then raced around the track for 10 minutes. This just in: karting is fun. So. Much. Fun. Even after I spun out on the third turn, I was undeterred and back in the race in no time. And it even turns out I’m not the worst driver ever: I merely came in second to last.

The adventure continued at Ferrari World, a racing fanatic’s dream park. Its marquee attraction is Formula Rosso, the world’s fastest roller coaster. My physical limitations prevented me from partaking; my traveling mates ate it up as the coaster accelerated from 0km/h to 240km/h (150mi/h) in 4.9 seconds. if you’re curious to know what it's like to be behind the wheel of an F1 race car, this is the way to find out. For a significant add-on fee, luxury-car enthusiasts can partake in the Ferrari World Driving Experience – meaning you can drive an actual Ferrari around the grounds (with an instructor). 

Afternoon: After an action-packed day and jam-packed trip, I was relived that our final stop was the majestic and serene Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Like the presidential palace, this is a brand-new structure (2007) that you’d be forgiven to believe has been standing for centuries.

With 82 marble domes, the mosque is astounding in its scale and beauty – one of the most significant examples of modern Islamic architecture in the world. Each element of the mosque’s design is likely to take your breath away: the floral-mosaic-adorned columns; the three gargantuan stainless steel and brass Swarovski-crystal embellished chandeliers in the main prayer hall; the massive marble-floored courtyard.

The dress code and rules of behavior are strictly enforced – be sure to adhere to the requirements and cover your arms and legs. Women also need to cover their hair. And don’t worry if you arrive unprepared, as there are multiple vendors on hand to sell you appropriate garb.

Be sure to book early to enjoy the free 45-minute guided tour. And try to visit right before sunset to marvel at the delicate lighting design.