Some 26km northwest of central Chitré, Parque Nacional Sarigua is arguably the most important pre-Columbian site in Panama. The archaeological site has been dated back 11,000 years, although much of it is yet to be excavated. Created in 1984, it consists of 80 sq km of wasteland that was once dry tropical rainforest and coastal mangrove patches. Buses do not go all the way to the park. A taxi ride to the park office from Chitré costs about US$15.
Sarigua is the end product of slash-and-burn agriculture so typical of the Península de Azuero; because the forest that had held the thin topsoil in place was removed, the heavy rainfalls that occur each year have carried the topsoil away.
A visit to Sarigua is a sobering reminder of the earth’s fragility, and the rapid speed in which humans can alter the environment. From the rickety mirador (lookout) behind the ranger station, you can gaze out at the dry, cracked earth and swirling dust storms that used to be a living, breathing ecosystem. If you have your own transportation (4WD required in rainy season), you can drive a few kilometers into the park, but much of Sarigua is off-limits to the public. The coastal edges of the park are also home to privately owned commercial shrimp farms, which stand as a testament to the rapid destruction of Panama’s wetland habitat.
To get here from the Carretera Nacional, take the turnoff opposite the unmissable (and bright orange) Super Candy convenience store just before you reach Parita. After going 2.5km, you'll reach a fork with a green-and-yellow sign indicating the park. The ranger's station is another five minutes further on.