A kilometre north of Taman Fatahillah, the old port of Sunda Kelapa still sees the magnificent Makassar schooners (pinisi). In some respects the dock scene here has barely changed for centuries, with porters unloading cargo from sailing ships by hand and trolley, though it's far less busy today. There is a more modern main harbour to the right of here, where fancy yachts are docked.
A local guide named Yuda runs informative tours around the area (700,000Rp for three hours).
This entire area is rundown and its waters grotesquely polluted. The many tracts of landfill suggest that redevelopment may not be far off.