After visiting the Citadel, try this excellent Vietnamese place with aluminium furniture that draws a local crowd for superior versions of two local street-food classics. The banh khoai (rice crêpes filled with pork and shrimp) are crammed with bean sprouts, and the nem lui (grilled pork and lemongrass skewers) go perfectly with a chilled Huda lager.
There's also delicious veggie and quail egg filled pancakes. Closing time can be somewhat flexible so go for lunch.