This hiply renovated warehouse restaurant in one of Brooklyn's booming food enclaves makes some of the best pizza in NYC. Service is relaxed, but the brick-oven pies are serious: chewy, fresh and topped with knowing combinations of outstanding ingredients. The classic margherita is sublime; more adventurous palates can opt for near-legendary options like 'Beastmaster' (gorgonzola, pork sausage and jalapeño).
Salads are not an afterthought but, like the tomato, peach and herb salt, may exquisitely complement slices of pie. As this is Williamsburg, there's a glass-walled radio studio broadcasting food programs in one corner, and there's also a garden bar where you can enjoy beer, wine or cocktails if you must wait. Weekend brunch draws large crowds.