La Cabaña

Venice, Marina Del Rey & Playa del Rey

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They make the tortillas before your eyes at this rangy, atmospheric warren of a cantina in business since the early '60s. A small troop of black-jacketed, red-bow-tied waiters serves tableside guacamole, authentic chile rellenos (stuffed peppers), carne asada (marinated, grilled beef), 'super burritos' such as El Verde with green salsa and melted cheese, and 10 kinds of quesadillas.

Then there are the margaritas. Ay caramba! The 'original', with the good tequila, sounds expensive at $19 but contains three servings. And we love the chef's specialty margarita with crushed strawberries served on the rocks.

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