Repeatedly a flash-point for coastal-access and land-rights issues, Kawa Bay is now a quiet, pebbly cove. It's bounded by a creek and cliff-top heiau (temple) on one side, and Kaʻalaiki, the island's second-largest freshwater spring system and fishpond estuary, on the other. It's a peaceful place to picnic, and some locals do surf, but beware of strong currents and sharks. Park at the yellow gate at Mile 58.5 on Hwy 11 and walk half a mile down the track to the cove.
Further down Hwy 11 an open 4WD road accesses the coast, but on the other side of the spring. Locals also come here to fish; always respect their space.
In 2011, conservation groups helped the county purchase the land around Kawa to prevent it from being sold to developers. However, Native Hawaiians claiming familial rights to the area squatted here in makeshift shacks, refusing to allow county officials to survey the land. Eventually, they were evicted, but the tension remains.
Among the area's rich cultural sites is Keʻeku Heiau. One of the largest heiau in the region, it is believed to have been a luakini (temple used for human sacrifice). The site is still visited by some Native Hawaiian practitioners whose offerings adorn several ahu (stone cairns used to mark a trail; an altar or shrine). Driftwood bars the entrance – a tacit request that visitors do not enter. Find it atop the cliff on the northeastern end of the bay.