Hip Kanpai looks slick enough for Brooklyn, but it is mellowed with Hilo's small-town camaraderie, easygoing attitude and Pacific fusion soul. The specialties are ramen, sushi and sake. With Japanese and Korean influences, sushi rolls are egregiously experimental, but there's well-cut nigiri for traditionalists. Bowls of steaming ramen come spicy and brimming with fresh toppings.
For late-night hanging out, Kanpai serves creative, island-influenced cocktails and good Japanese whiskey.