This funky little old-time place doesn’t look so inviting – the windows are blacked out and it’s dark as a crypt inside – but its popularity with locals starts with its stubborn ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it ethos and ends with its steak – a big, thick, charbroiled decadence.
Regulars start lining up for dinner at 4pm, when cocktail hour begins. There are no reservations, so it easily takes an hour to get a seat.