For a spectacular introduction to life on the Uruguayan land, head to this 970-hectare working estancia 40km northwest of Tacuarembó. Juan Manuel, who was born and raised here, his Swiss wife Susanne and gaucho Bilinga invite guests to get fully immersed in farm activities from the mundane (tagging and vaccinating animals) to the classic (herding cattle on horseback).
Guests sleep dorm-style in simple rooms, eat three home-cooked meals a day (including self-serve bacon and eggs cooked on the woodstove), hit the basketball and volleyball courts at sunset and congregate around the fireplace at night. Call ahead to coordinate dates and arrange transportation from Tacuarembó's bus station.