Once one of Central Asia’s most spectacular sights, Ashgabat's legendary Tolkuchka Bazaar is now sadly unregonisable following a government relocation from its time immemorial location in 2010. Now housed in a collection of characterless hangar-style buildings and surrounded by car parks, the new Tolkuchka, or the Altyn Asyr Market as it's officially known, has none of the old market's mercantile soul or chaotic charm.
It's a crying shame, although the new premises are no doubt cleaner and offer both vendors and visitors better protection from the fierce desert sun. Few travellers who have experienced markets elsewhere in the region will find the bazaar thrilling, though there are still some good carpets and handicrafts on sale. Remember you’ll need to get an export certificate for the carpet before taking it out of the country; some carpet sellers can organise this, or you can go to the ‘expert commission’ at the Carpet Museum.
Tolkuchka is busiest on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday from around 8am to 3pm, though many stalls close around lunchtime. Watch out for pickpockets. The new site is about 10km north of Ashgabat, approximately 1km past the new city bus station. A taxi should cost around 15M. Buses go there from the corner of Magtymguly şayoli and 1958 köçesi (1958 is a block east of Turkmenbashi şayoli).