If you climb up through the forgettable lower floors of Trabzon's historic covered marketplace (Bedestan), you emerge in this magical, low-lit space of giant square columns and hefty architectural squinches, all lavished with rugs, lanterns, swords, old cameras, samovars and toy cars.
As well as coffees, tea and nargile, there's a limited menu of snacks plus competent, fair-value garnished meals (₺25).