Translating to 'Mardin's Eye', this multi-level cafe, teahouse and restaurant has knock-'em-dead views over the Mesopotamian plains and is always busy. Grab a terrace table and feast on an excellent meze selection or Mardin specialities of kidre (slow-cooked lamb casserole) and tahinli tavuk (chicken and courgettes in a tahini sauce).
There are great choices for vegetarians here.