This lovingly restored Ottoman house is like a joyously jumbled museum, displaying such an endless selection of ancient copperware, swords, old rugs etc that there's not much space left for seating in some rooms. The short menu offers mainly traditional Black Sea dishes. The Riza speciality hamsi pilavi (anchovy pilaf, ₺25) needs to be pre-ordered one day ahead.
Their köy kahvaltısı (village breakfast, ₺30) uses the produce from local villages. Or just order tea (₺2.50) and enjoy the atmosphere. It's very close to the museum but entered from the side lane opposite the better marked Pipa's Cafe.