Rural Çavdarhisar (60km southwest of Kütahya) is home to one of Anatolia's best-preserved Roman remains. The Temple of Zeus, built under Hadrian (r AD 117–138), was Aizanoi's major sanctuary and today its cella (inner room), bordered by colonnades of Ionic columns, lords it up over the surrounding meadow. Displayed in front is a large akroterion (roof ornament), originally from the temple's northwest gable, depicting a female bust. Inside, you can descend into a vaulted cellar where stelae are exhibited.
The temple was originally thought by archaeologists to be dedicated to both Zeus and the Anatolian fertility goddess Cybele, but contemporary work at the site has seen that theory disregarded in recent years. Archaeologists have also unearthed evidence that the raised mound the temple sits on has been a settlement since at least the early Bronze Age. While in the temple, note the simple images of horse riders on the exterior walls left by the Çavdar Tartars who used the temple as their military base in the 13th century.
Although the Temple of Zeus is the main monument to visit, there are various other remnants of Ancient Aizanoi scattered along the road, all within walking distance of the temple. Head north to the ruins of the 3rd-century Roman theatre, stadium and bath complex. The theatre remains, with its marble stage masonry toppled by earthquakes, are particularly atmospheric. To the south of the temple is a Roman bridge and a small area, opposite a mosque, containing a colonnaded street and the remains of a macellum, the Roman market.
Çavdarhisar is on the Kütahya–Gediz road. From 11.30am to 7.20pm dolmuşes (minibuses with a prescribed route) serve Çavdarhisar from Kütahya otogar (bus station; ₺7, one hour), returning from 8.30am to around 6pm. Buses for Gediz or Emet transit Çavdarhisar. A return taxi trip from Kütahya, including waiting time, costs around ₺250.
