Those who enjoy investigating regional cuisines should head to this four-storey eatery in the Women's Bazaar near the Aqueduct of Valens. It specialises in two dishes that are a speciality of the southeastern city of Siirt: büryan (lamb slow-cooked in a pit oven) and perde pılavı (chicken and rice cooked in pastry). Both are totally delicious.
The büryan here is cooked in pits at the rear of the restaurant and is meltingly tender. It's served on flat bread with crispy bits of lamb fat and a dusting of salt. Perde pilavi is made with rice, chicken, almonds and currants that are encased in a thin pastry shell and then baked until the exterior turns golden and flaky. Order either with a glass of frothy homemade ayran (salty yogurt drink) and you'll be happy indeed. Note that on weekends the food tends to run out by 9pm. No alcohol.
