Iki Sandal

One of the most creative restaurants in town, this place occupies a lovely old stone house and has a front terrace with harbour views. A lot of care has gone into the menu, which features healthy, unusual starters like topik (an Armemian dish of caramelised onions, blackcurrants, pine nuts and chickpeas) and a smashed cucumber salad that's made from an Ottoman-era recipe.