Nature wraps itself around this family-run guesthouse's waterside lodgings. It has two parts: regular rooms up above and stilted bungalows in a jungly backwater bit of the river. The latter have limited or no wi-fi, but you trade this for a constant chorus of crickets and birds. Add helpful staff and this is one of the best budget choices in town.
The restaurant (mains 40B to 140B) is pretty good.