One of two pseudo-Greek houses on Chimei, the unmissable main building looks like a comic book caricature of a Santorini church complete with murals and bell tower. Charming owner Jefferson speaks basic English, rates include breakfast and scooter hire, and there's a little swimming pool.
That's at the rear of the architecturally-less-notable annex across the road where the large shared terrace (and some bedrooms) have sea views. In winter, Jefferson and his family are often away, but when they're at home the guesthouse is open – call to check.