Eight ensuite rooms in two different properties are relatively simple with older bathrooms at prices that drop to almost dormitory levels outside peak periods (from NT$500).
Owner Hsiao Chiang has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the island and can show you his family’s underground houses (NT$250). He speaks no English, but helper Alan does. Look for the bright, mustard-yellow building on the main street of Yeyin (Ivalino), often fronted with wetsuits hung out to dry.