This creaking two-storey teahouse from the Japanese era has the look and feel of a frontier gambling den. Inside you can almost picture the miners squatting on makeshift benches, shuffling cards and warming their hands on a metal teapot. There's no minimum order, making it a good spot for an evening beer. Grab a terrace table for views over the twinkling illuminations of Jiufen.
To get here, follow Jishan Rd past the main tourist area until it starts to descend steeply. Just past a couple of homestays, look for the English sign to the teahouse on the left.