From a nondescript entrance on Stora Torget, stairs lead to this sprawling hideaway, its eclectically furnished rooms seemingly stuck in time. Order at the counter, where offerings include delicious quiches and especially popular 'filo cupcakes', savoury concoctions filled with the likes of Västerbotten cheese and chanterelle mushrooms. For a sugar high, opt for the Fransk chokladkaka (chocolate and hazelnut cake) or carrot cake.
If the weather's on your side, nibble and imbibe on the outdoor terrace.