For super-generous helpings of fresh, high-quality local food, head upstairs to this warm, wood-beamed loft-like space with Picos photos and a tiny trickling fountain. Carnivores should try the Liébana speciality cocido lebaniego (a filling stew of chickpeas, potato, greens, chorizo, black pudding, bacon and beef) or tuck into a half-kilogram chuletón (giant beef chop). Crisp salads are also tasty.
There's a long list of Spanish wines, including a couple of locally made choices.