Casa Carlos

Decked with potted plants and red-check tablecloths, this cosy old-fashioned dining room clings to the hillside, affording fabulous views of the extraordinary ancient beach houses below. Owner Julia whips up wonderfully simple seafood, including grilled tuna, fish soup, vieja (parrot fish), paella and mussels, plus home-style coffee and platters of herreño cheese. Also has two- to four-person apartments (€40).