Mesón del Rastro

The dark-wood-beamed interior announces immediately that this is a bastion of robust Castilian cooking, which it has been since 1881. Expect delicious mainstays such as judías del barco de Ávila (white beans, often with chorizo, in a thick sauce) and cordero asado (roast lamb), mercifully light salads and, regrettably, the occasional coach tour. The menú de degustación, priced for two people (€42), comes warmly recommended, but only if you're really hungry.