Bodega Vidrios y Cristales

In a history-steeped, stone-floored 1840 building, this atmospheric little jewel recreates an old-style neighbourhood bodega with tins of sardines, anchovies and other delicacies lining the shelves (and used in exquisite tapas, €3 to €15), house-made vermouth and a wonderful array of wines, including Andalucian manzanilla (sherry from Sanlúcar de Barrameda). A handful of upturned wine barrels let you rest your glass.