La Carboná

This cavernous, imaginative restaurant occupies an exquisite old bodega set around a suspended fireplace. Delicately presented market-based specialities include grilled meats, fresh fish, boletus rice jazzed up with razor clams or almadraba tuna tartare with egg-yolk-and-amontillado (dry sherry) emulsion, plus outstanding local wines. Or go all-in with sherry-pairing menus (€45).