Tabanco Las Banderillas

Decked with bullfighting memorabilia, this yellow-walled tabanco is forever popular for its wonderfully simple, meat-heavy tapas, from chacinas (cold cuts), tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) and patatas aliñadas (potato salad, often with tuna) to riñones al Jerez. The chalkboard matches sherries with customers' moods.