Arriving from the west, there's no need to go further than Anstruther's first house on the left, a redoubt of Scottish cheer and warm hospitality. The rooms are elegant and extremely comfortable – some have views across to Edinburgh, and one is a wood-panelled recreation of a ship's cabin, courtesy of the sea captain who once owned the house.
There are DVD players and teddies for company, an honesty bar with characterful ales and malts, and fine company from your hosts. Breakfast includes porridge once voted the best in the kingdom. Dinner (£26 per person) is also available but must be booked in advance.