Fall asleep to the lullaby of lapping waves at this charming, slightly ramshackle place. Accommodation varies dramatically: the cheapest fale teeter on stilts over the lagoon and are very basic (though their sea-gazing decks are adorably atmospheric), while those with private facilities have air-conditioning, mod-cons and a sturdier feel. The on-site restaurant-bar is social, scenic and open to all.
Kayaks are free, and there’s deep enough water for a proper swim off the pier.