At the southeastern end of Upolu, Aleipata district has a reef system that’s making a good comeback after being pummelled by the 2009 tsunami. It already has surprisingly good snorkelling, and the beaches here are among the most spellbindingly beautiful in the world. Check out the undersea magic by walking in off the spectacular white beach at Lalomanu. If you’re lucky you might spot a turtle, but beware of strong currents.
The bus from Apia to Lalomanu (ST7.70) takes around two hours. If you're driving, don't be surprised if you get hit up for a fee for simply parking your car at a beach. Villages earn income from this, but some 'toll collectors' do push it a bit (one man tried to charge us ST50 for the pleasure): feel free to negotiate or move along elsewhere.