You'll find a pleasant mix of post-industrial and theatrical in this dimly lit space, where low-hanging chandeliers and comfortable chairs make for a long and enjoyable evening. The menu mirrors the city outside – inventively cosmopolitan with a sprinkle of Soviet nostalgia and a strong bias towards domestic meat and vegetable producers.
The ministerial schnitzel – a hint at menus of Brezhnev-era restaurants for the party elite – is outstanding, even though it has very little in common with the prototype.