You'll need your own wheels but it's well worth searching out this convivial family-run restaurant in Tonda, a small village some 30km southwest of Viseu. Your reward will be a meal of brilliantly executed regional dishes served in an atmospheric dining room clad in old wood and exposed stone. The wine list is a further plus, offering a curated selection of local Dão labels.
If you want to take a bottle home with you, there's also a shop selling local vinho as well as regional honeys, preserves, sausages, oils and black earthenware from nearby Molelos.