Housed in a 17th-century manor in the gorgeous hillside village of Provesende, a 20-minute drive from Pinhão, this welcoming guesthouse has eight minimalist rooms inside old stables, with skylights, pinewood floors and original details. Run by the 19th-generation owner, who also produces wine and soaps based on an old family recipe, this special hideaway serves up heritage and stories aplenty.
Meals are served in a cosy living room with a fireplace, and breakfast often includes picking up freshly baked bread from the village bakery, which still uses a wood-fired bread oven. Check out the swimming pool in an old granite port-wine storage tank. The village itself, on the N323 from Pinhão to Sabrosa, is worth exploring, with its 18th-century church, a 16th-century pillory, a local cafe and a cute gift shop. You can hike all the way down to the river or even go horseback riding (€50 per hour, for experienced riders) if you request ahead of time.