Despite a posh address on Praça Luís de Camões, O Trevo is a bustling and surly local joint deeply rooted in the daily grind. Working-class lisboêtas go for the bifanas – thinly sliced pork, precooked in boiling seasoned lard and slapped on the griddle, served between two slices of warmed biju bread with mustard and/or chilli oil (€1.90 to €2.15).
It's a must-see (and must-taste) experience of Lisbon without make-up.