If you thought Peking duck was the city's favourite chow, think again. That accolade belongs to Hú Dà's Sichuan-style spicy crayfish (麻辣小龙虾; málà xiǎolóngxiā), little lobster-like critters cooked in chilli-red oil, to be grappled, pulled apart and gobbled up with gloved fingers. Come for lunch (or a midnight feast) to beat the queues.
Which are, to put it mildly, epic. Hordes of hungry diners colonise the pavement outside from around 5pm – not just here but at all five Hú Dà branches along Ghost St! Expect to wait for around an hour between collecting a number and getting a table if coming between 6pm and 10pm.
The different price grades of crayfish simply refer to size – the bigger are more expensive. You don't have to go spicy, either; you can choose garlic or soy sauce, and avail yourselves of other Sichuan favourites such as shuǐzhǔyú (fish fillets in spicy oil). Eating the crayfish properly is an artform; ask the waitstaff to show you: 'Zěnme bāo lóngxiā?' 怎么剥龙虾?. Pair your catch with Jing-A craft beer specially brewed to complement the dish.