The grand old Whangamomona Hotel was built in 1912 after the original burnt down. It's a pub offering simple accommodation and big country meals (mains $12 to $28, open 9am till late – try the lamb shanks). A newer lodge 50m from the pub has rooms with private bathrooms.
This is where you come to get your passport stamped ($2 gold coin community donation) and to grab a Whangamomona passport ($5).