This charismatic guesthouse run by Mary Lee Alverez is one of the island's most isolated, idiosyncratic places to stay. It's set on a steep hillside overlooking the mangrove cays and the Caribbean, so guests have little choice but to unplug (limited wi-fi, no TVs) and relax. Each apartment has bright marine-themed furnishings; many have private decks, hammocks and barbecue facilities.
Mary Lee herself is a character, an attentive host who came here to dive 50 years ago and never left. There are stairs that descend to a dock where you can relax by the water, or rent kayaks (per hour/day US$20/40) to paddle out to nearby cays such as Gilligan's Island.