In Saidowai village, in the northern corner of the bay, local activist Mombi Onesimo is encouraging tourism as an alternative to Malaysian rosewood logging. His Saidowai Guesthouse is an excellent place to base yourself as Mombi arranges guides to local attractions, snorkelling trips, canoe-fishing expeditions and treks to see Goldie's bird of paradise and the Bwasiaiai hot springs.
It's possible to walk to Esa'ala from Saidowai overnighting in a series of guesthouses along the way. Ask Mombi for details, but there are guesthouses at Sibanai, Welala, Bwakera, Poponawai and Ulowai Beach. All of these guesthouses are within a day's walk from one another and provide meals, however you will need to bring bedding, a mosquito net and torch.