Nuli Sapi, run by Aussie Kayleigh and her local business partner, is the loveliest place to stay in the area. Lodging is in one of four attractively designed bungalows perched right over the water with cold-water bathrooms. Days are spent fishing, snorkelling, canoeing, visiting villages and island-hopping (activities cost extra). Meals feature fresh-caught seafood.
Take the public weekday afternoon boat from Alotau to Samarai, and arrange pickup from there. Private boat pickup from Alotau (from K350) also available.