Perched on a ledge up above Chirah, with postcard-perfect views of Diran and the Hinarche Glacier, the basic Bagrote Sarai is literally at the end of the road. There's a panoramic dining hall in which to unwind, and above it the simple rooms are arranged on terraces (you can lie in bed and look out at the mountains). The bathrooms are in a separate building and there are more terraces above the rooms where you can pitch a tent.