This low-rise surfers lodge looks like a government school from a distance, but don't be put off: it's in a superb location at the top of the high-tide line. The sea-salted rooms have starched linen, huge windows, faded plasterwork and equestrian paintings that contrast with the desert exterior. Fresh seafood is on the menu daily (from OR4.5).
A favourite with the surfing community thanks to the high waves in summer, the hotel (15km north of Al Ashkharah) is often full between May to October. For the rest of the year it goes into semi-hibernation, making it a peaceful retreat from which to explore the desert coastline. The highly accommodating staff can book a ticket (for those with their own transport) to Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve: for the night tour it's best to leave the hotel at 7.30pm for the 45-minute drive. Surfboards (OR15 per day) are available, and there's mini-golf and waterslides for the kids.