If you stay over in Kaesong, you’ll normally be based at this wonderful hotel consisting of 20 traditional Korean yeogwan (small, well-equipped en suite rooms), all off small courtyards, and featuring a charming stream running through it. There’s no electricity during the day, but there’s usually light in the evening and hot water.
It’s basic (the rice-husk pillows are distinctly hard!) but fascinating and far more atmospheric than anywhere else you’ll stay in the country. There are a couple of rooms with beds for those who are infirm or have back problems – request ahead.