This beautiful wooden home is so nice the Sandinistas once used it as their east-coast base. Grab one of the more attractively furnished rooms upstairs in the original house; they have wooden fixtures and high ceilings. Downstairs rooms are less charming, but cheaper. Fabulous breakfasts (US$3) with terrific coffee are served on the wide deck overlooking a rambling garden.
Rooms have hot water, although you rarely need it in Bilwi.