Themed around colourful figures from Kumara's past, rooms at this beautifully restored 1876 pub are reason enough to stay in town. We especially loved the feminine flourishes of Barbara Weldon's room, honouring a former lady of the night. Motel-style miners' cottages (sleeping up to four) are new but have vintage finishes such as clawfoot tubs.
The opulence continues with two suites in the picturesque Bank of New Zealand building across the road. The Theatre Royal's downstairs bar is a good spot for a hearty meal and a yarn with the locals; with a bit of encouragement, one of them might thump out a tune on the piano.